It also has a sentimental provenance. Mr. Loring said that Farnham presented the brooch to his wife, Sally James Farnham, behind she adored his sapphire iris brooch, which Henry Walters brought at the Paris fair. The price for the brooch at Primavera is $300,000.
With costs like these it's not also startling namely Tiffany's recently returned to the painting embark to design some current bloom jewelry inspired by Farnham's early go. As Fernanda Kellogg of Tiffany's put it, ''We have 3 direct descendants of Farnham in the flower category: one iris brooch with blue sapphire petals, a pearly diamond carnation brooch and a diamond-studded dandelion.'' The amounts are $35,000 to $55,000.
tiffany co sale,,,Why not enameled orchids like Farnham's? ''If only I could find something who could enamel that well, I'd make the orchids, too,'' Mr. Loring said.
The jewelry catapulted its young designer to international celebrity: he triumphed the exposition's gold prize for his boss, Tiffany & Company, and created the United States on the international jewelry chart. This designer, little understood today, is the subject of Mr. Loring's latest book, ''Paulding Farnham: Tiffany's Lost Genius'' (Harry N. Abrams). ''Can you imagine?'' Mr. Loring said. ''This 29-year-old New York lad wins the gold medal in Paris.'' He conquered the grand medal gold medal for jewelry as well for a gold medal for silverware.
''You must memorize, America was seen as a second Paradise,'' Mr. Loring said. ''We were the New World. Hudson River School painters like Thomas Cole and Frederic Edwin Church were describing the glories of nature in the wild. Martin Johnson Heade's orchid paintings were wildly fashionable. Art in America had a unattached theme: nature.''
,,,,,tiffany bracelet heart,tiffany key pendants,''Tiffany's school was thought a first-class area then,'' Mr. Loring said. ''And Farnham was one of the stars. He spent a colossal quantity of period drawing from nature. He was a great draftsman. He mastered the basics and then absentminded the normal forms.''
Until immediately, not much was known approximately Farnham, who worked to work for Tiffany's in 1875 at the old of 16 and stayed until 1908. His uncle, Charles T. Cook, a vice chancellor at Tiffany's, had him acknowledged as an beginner in the Tiffany ''school,'' a rigorous art academy in the institution of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts.
The Primavera Gallery in Manhattan is to show a great gold iris brooch encrusted with ruddy tourmalines, diamonds and green garnets from Russia at the International 20th-Century Arts Fair at the Seventh Regiment Armory, which runs from Nov. 25 to 29. Audrey Friedman, the gallery's co-owner, bought it at Christie's 8 years antecedent. ''I outbid Tiffany for it,'' she said. ''It is very rare for it is signed by Paulding Farnham, not Tiffany, which makes it an momentous piece of American jewelry.''
Farnham's jewelry designs were creative by even the lowliest of subjects, from lizards to spiders. It entire worked. The motifs also turned up on his picture frames, watches, fragrance bottles and cilia ornaments.
Farnham drew brooches in the form of roses, hydrangeas, irises and dandelions. Craftsmen translated them into jewelry, often enameled with precious stone emphases. They were a tour de coerce of the jeweler's art.
Today Farnham's Tiffany chips are hard to find above the mall. The Manhattan gallery Historical Design, by 301 East 61st Street,Quebec City Shopping Guide From Malls apt Boutiques, fair sold a picture frame attributed to Farnham, done in a scroll and leaf idea in sterling silver. It is part of the gallery's present show of picture frames. Farnham jewelry too comes up sometimes at auction. Sotheby's sold his orchid brooch No. 19, with 2 diamond petals and a ruby stem, in 1993 for $415,000.
''Nature sells,'' exclaimed John Loring, Tiffany & Company's longtime design mentor, describing the success of flower jewelry that Tiffany's showed at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The orchid pins of special note reasoned a emotion. Tiffany's had 24 jeweled, enameled orchid brooches, each precisely modeled on a alter exotic kind, at the just. They were numbered and embellished with diamonds, emeralds, aquamarines, pearls and rubies.
''The greatest triumph is to be base in the orchid exhibition,'' The Paris Herald reported at the time. ''They are so faithfully reproduced that one would virtually mistrust that they are enamel, so well do they pretend the real flowers.'' Captains of industry like George Jay Gould and the railway merchant Henry Walters scarfed them up.
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